The Biggest Haircare Shampoo Questions are Answered

The secret to great hair is all in how you wash it. If you don't give your haircare shampoo a second thought, think again. The right bottle can bring you the rich, shiny, healthy do dreams.

Question:
How often should I shampoo?

Answer:
There's no harm in washing your hair every day, unless you start to see a lot of breakage, says Jeffrey J. Miller, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology at Pennsylvania State University College of Medicine. The evidence: lots of flyaways and little "baby hairs" at the crown. The entire wetting, drying, and styling process takes moisture out of your hair, so here's a rule of thumb: • Wash every day if you have oily hair, live in a polluted city or humid environment, or work out daily. • Wash every other day if your hair is normal or combination (with dry ends and oily roots). • Wash every few days if your hair is on the dry side (this includes curly or color-treated hair) or if you live in a rural environment or dry climate.

Question:
Is it possible to use too much shampoo?
Answer:
As long as you rinse it all out, you really can't use too much. A dollop the size of a quarter is usually enough, but hair length is also a factor. Lather can be drying, but since it only sits in your hair a few minutes, it's safe for all hair types, says Dr. Miller.

Question:

What is the ideal water temperature? Answer:
Warm water will work up a nice lather and help dissolve the soap so that your hair rinses clean. Avoid really hot water, which can actually make your hair limp, warns David Edery, owner of Attitudes Paris Salon in Houston. For the final rinse, cold water is best — it will lock helpful ingredients into each strand and make hair look shinier.

Question:

It takes me a long time to use up a bottle of shampoo. Does it expire?
Answer:
Most shampoos have a shelf life of two to three years. A product that's older won't harm your hair, but it won't be as effective, says Rick Abbott, product development manager for Suave. How to tell if your product is past its prime? According to Abbott, telltale signs are separation and/or a change in color or smell

Question:

I need a shampoo that will protect my color. Does that mean I can't also get shine and volume?
Answer: 
Absolutely not. Many shampoos that preserve color now include "bonus" ingredients to promote volume and shine (and to make curls look better). If that's not enough for you, start a shampoo wardrobe. Make the color protector your basic, but use the others on alternate days to get different benefits.

Question:

How often should I use a deep-cleansing or clarifying shampoo?
Answer:
If you use a lot of styling products, live in an area with mineral-rich water, or swim a lot, you should deep-cleanse or clarify twice a month. Oily types: It's a good idea to use a daily clarifying shampoo every time you wash. For the rest of us: Use a clarifying, purifying, or chelating formula (which removes mineral residue) if your hair looks dull or has become resistant to your regular products. If you color your hair and worry about the effects of deep cleansers, Edery suggests one that's safe — vinegar. Mix one quarter cup white vinegar with one cup of water. Leave it on hair for one to two minutes after shampooing and conditioning, then rinse out.

Question:
Are costly salon shampoos better than drugstore kinds?
Answer:
Shampoo is not one of those "you get what you pay for" products. How much you like a formula depends on your personal preferences (in terms of scent and texture) and how it works on your particular hair. A $5 shampoo may smell good to you and leave your hair looking terrific, while someone else may feel the same way about a $25 bottle. That said, there are a few facts to know: The big companies that create drugstore brands put a lot of money into research and new technology, but they can still keep prices low because they manufacture their products in mass quantities. Expensive shampoos have advantages of their own: In general, they're gentler and contain a higher concentration of high-quality ingredients (e.g., a conditioner that penetrates deeper into each strand). And, yes, you do pay for packaging but that's true whether you're shelling out $3 or $30. So focus not on the price tag but on finding a grime fighter that works for you.

Question:

When is it time to switch shampoos? Answer:
Sometimes the same bottle that's always made your hair bouncy and shiny can leave it lackluster without warning. "It's a popular perception that shampoo suddenly stops working, but it's not the shampoo that's changed," says David Cannell, senior vice president of research and development for Redken. Unless a product's label alerts you to a "new" or "improved" formula, it's the surface of your hair that's different. But this doesn't necessarily mean you can't go back to your old favorite. If buildup is causing the problem, first clarify, then bring back your beloved bottle. No improvement? It may be time to switch for good. A simple self-test: Look at your nails. If they are ridged, peeling, or seem to break more easily, you're experiencing the most common of all changes — aging, which leads to water loss in our cells and tissues. So while you're still using your trusty oily-hair formula, your hair may be drier than it's ever been. Buy a moisturizing version, or ask your stylist to diagnose your hair's new needs.

Question:

Do I really need conditioner?

Answer:
Conditioner is essential. It finishes what shampoo starts, in terms of making hair manageable and repairing problems like split ends. "Everyone's hair is damaged — the only question is how badly," says Cheri McMaster, senior research and development scientist for Pantene. You may go through many conditioners before you find the right one, but you'll know when you've met your match. "When your hair is properly conditioned, it holds a style better," says Cannell.