4 Common Hair Care Questions Untangled

With all the hair care products available, consumers can easily become entangled in their choices. Some products promise to be gentler on hair, while others offer thickening or smoothing solutions, but not all of these claims are scientifically based.

Despite their uplifting promises, some products can be just a waste of money, and some can actually damage the hair, said Dr. Nicole Rogers, an assistant professor of dermatology at Tulane University in New Orleans.

Here are some tips to help you decide which hair care products to buy, as well as the lowdown on the science of some commonly touted ingredients. [ 7 Beauty Trends that Are Bad for Your Health]

Are sulfate-free shampoos really better?

Sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate are two of the most common shampoo ingredients. These chemicals are what make shampoos turn into a thick lather in the shower, which removes dirt and debris from hair.

Recently, sulfates have come under attack for being harsh on the hair by removing natural oils, causing frizziness and damage to dyed hair. Now, many products bear a "sulfate-free" label, and these are often more expensive than their counterparts.

However, Rogers said there is no scientific evidence that sulfate-free shampoos are gentler on the hair than shampoos that contain sulfate.

Similarly, no scientific data supports marketing claims that some sulfate-free shampoos extend the life of hair color or keratin treatments, Rogers said.

It is possible that some people, particularly those with the skin condition eczema, are sensitive to sulfates. There have been a few reports linking sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate to contact dermatitis in some people. For these people, sulfate-free shampoos can be beneficial, Rogers said.

Are keratin treatments safe?

Keratin treatments are touted for their ability to smooth and straighten hair, turning the tightest curls into silky threads, with an effect lasting up to five months.

However, in addition to keratin, these products contain the dangerous chemical formaldehyde, often exceeding the concentrations permitted in Canada and European countries. Keratin treatment products have also been cited numerous times by the U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) for using higher levels of formaldehyde than are allowed in the United States.

Formaldehyde can harm the eyes, lungs and nasal passages, Rogers said. The chemical is also thought to be a carcinogen.

Moreover, there is no data showing that keratin treatments can strengthen the hair. Rather, the high-heat flat irons needed to seal the formaldehyde into the hair shaft can cause long-term damage to the hair, Rogers said.

Are hair-thickening products safe?

Products marketed as hair thickeners temporarily coat the hair shaft to make hair look thicker, but they cannot change the natural density of hair. The thickening effect will only last until the hair is washed.

Rogers said that these products are very safe, and advised consumers to look for hair-thickening products that contain hydrolyzed keratin or dimethicone, which coat the hair shaft to make hair appear thicker.

Some hair-thickening products now being marketed also contain the drug minoxidil, which can boost the density of thinning hair and create noticeably thicker hair. Minoxidil is the only topical medication approved by the Food and Drug Administration to regrow hair and slow future hair loss, Rogers said.

Should heat protectants be used when blow drying?

Heat from hair dryers, flat irons or curling irons can be very damaging to hair, and cause a condition that dermatologists call bubble hair: When the water in the hair is heated and turns to steam, it causes bubbles to form within the hair shaft. The result is brittle hair, with frizzy ends.

To counteract the effects of heat, Rogers recommended using a heat protectant before applying any heat to the hair. These products are sprayed or applied onto the hair, and contain protective polymers and silicones that insulate hair from heat.

Also, it is better to use the lowest temperature settings on hair dryers, and use heat as little as necessary and for the shortest time possible, Rogers said.

For hair already damaged by heat, moisturizing the hair regularly can help reduce the appearance of heat damage, but it cannot repair the hair, Rogers said. Cutting damaged hair, and allowing healthy hair to regrow, can also improve your locks' appearance.

7 Hair Care Beliefs that are Actually Damaging

So you are all set for your wedding, fixed appointments with your beautician, made your trousseau shopping list and decided your look for the big day. This is the time when everyone you meet is up with some advice for you, either for your outfit, makeup, skin or hair. Especially when it comes to hair care, there are at least a dozen beliefs and tips that every person wants you to follow. But did you know that some of these are actually not true at all, and can in fact damage your hair? Read on, as we bust 7 such popular notions.

1. More you comb, better it is for hair growth

Regular combing is necessary for tangle-free and healthy looking hair. It also promotes blood circulation in the scalp. So, this belief might have some creditable origins. But if you overdo it, and do not use a wide-toothed comb, there are all the chances that you pull the hair off the follicles making the strands weak. Frequent combing can also irritate the scalp, further damaging the follicles. So, just be gentle and use a wide-toothed comb to untangle hair.

2. Frequent shampooing prevents oily hair

Hormonal and genetic factors regulate how much oil is produced by our scalp. Shampooing will only cleanse your scalp and hair. It cannot control how much oil is produced. In fact, too much shampooing can leave your hair brittle by sapping it off the natural, essential oil.

3. Some hair products repair split ends

Split ends are caused by the wear and tear of hair because of rough handling. Another reason is not regularly oiling and cleansing the hair. The only cure for split ends is trimming your hair regularly, and conditioning it well. Experimenting with too many fancy products will not only burn a hole in your pocket, but also make your hair weak.

4. Frequent trimming helps in hair growth

This is one of the favourite beliefs that many of us hold and pass on. The known fact, however, is that hair grow at the roots, and trimming the edges has no significance whatsoever, on the growth. All regular trimming can do is to make you look well-groomed and your hair well-managed by eliminating split ends. So, go ahead and do get a trim regularly, but only with the intention to look better. As far as hair growth is concerned, everyone’s hair grows about half an inch every month. So as a matter of fact, too much trimming might actually slow down the results you are looking for!

5. Only animal protein is best for your hair

Animal protein from sources like eggs, chicken and fish, is actually very good for your hair. But it does not mean that vegetarians cannot have healthy hair! In fact, if you over indulge in animal proteins, you run a risk of piling on excessive calories as well. So, your regular pulses, lentils, nuts, soya, and milk products are absolutely perfect too.

Also Read: Fight Hair Loss with these 6 Common Foods

6. Some shampoos and oils can boost hair growth instantly

It is no secret that the quality and health of your hair is governed largely by your genes. This also holds true for hair growth. Your hair growth can slow down a little bit as you age. But with a well-nourishing diet, enough exercise, and regular hair cleansing routine, you can have a normal, healthy hair growth. Topical application of shampoos, serums or oils can do nothing exceptional for that.

7. Protein-based shampoos nourish your hair 'from within'

It is true that hair is composed of protein and it does need protein to remain healthy. But, all the protein that it needs, it gets from your diet. The scalp needs nourishment from within for hair growth. The so-called “protein based” shampoos will do nothing more than clean your hair; and, their excessive use will leave your hair dry.

We would say, not just for your wedding, but also for later, getting your facts right before you fall prey to hearsay would be great for healthy hair.

Hair Care Solutions That Won't Cost You a Penny

From finding the right shampoo to eating the right foods, there is so much that goes into taking care of your hair. Here's how you can get the hair of your dreams every day without breaking the bank or your schedule.

Shampoo

Find the right shampoo for your hair type, scalp type and washing frequency, and use only lukewarm or cool water. Fortnightly or monthly, use a clarifying shampoo to deep-cleanse your hair of product build-up.

Mumbai-based hairstylist Nisheeta Bavadekar says, “When wet, hair stretches by over one-third of its length and requires extremely gentle treatment. Avoid rough, vigorous shampooing and sleeping/leaving home with wet or dripping hair.” Sweat, friction and windy days can damage the hair shaft terribly.

Condition

After every shampoo, condition mid-lengths and ends, and very delicately, untangle knots with a wide-toothed comb before rinsing. Always use a towel to blot dry (never rub) excess moisture. Then, quickly blast-dry with a blow-dryer on a cool setting.

Nisheeta says, “Conditioning helps untangle hair when it is most vulnerable to breakage. When drying, always towel it till it’s 70 to 80 per cent dry, before using a hair dryer.” Don’t forget that a hair dryer is used to give shape and set hair. So use sparingly to avoid damage.  

Maintain

Even if you’re growing your hair, you need to trim it once in three months for healthy new growth. For very dry hair, seek professional help. Avoid tying it too tightly or in the same place, to prevent thinning or traction alopecia. Change your parting regularly.

Nisheeta says, “The hair up to two inches from your scalp gets nourished from your diet. The rest of your hair needs continuous external nourishment via serums, conditioning masks and salon treatments. Regular trimming is a must, as split-ends travel upwards towards the scalp and must be cut off.”

Healthy lifestyle

Healthy hair comes from within; aim for a balanced diet rich in protein, nuts and greens as well as plenty of water. Hormonal imbalances, new medications, lifestyle changes and deficiencies play havoc with its health.

Nisheeta says, “Hair loss is usually internal. Hair products do not penetrate the shaft, and therefore cannot cause worrisome hair loss. We spend so much time indoors that we don’t get enough sunlight and thus develop vitamin D deficiencies. Proper diet and a little care go a long way towards body, mind and hair health.” 

Protect

You live in artificial AC temperatures and tropical outdoors that dry your hair out. Use leave-in conditioners, serums and heat protectant sprays to coat hair with protective layers. Extreme sun exposure, straightening, extensive blow-drying and constant hair processing for colour or change in texture can damage it irreversibly. So, it is important to protect your hair from harm as much as possible.

10 winter hair care tips

Keep the gloss this winter

Winter can take its toll on your hair - cold winds, pouring rain, icy snaps, central heating all take their toll on your locks. So it's worth starting a change-of-seasons care regime to keep your hair in the best shape possible.

Follow this advice from hairstylist to the stars and creative director at the Daniel Galvin salon in central London, Asgar, to keep your tresses looking glossy, moisturised and full of life - whatever the weather.

1. The winter months can dull hair, so invest in a good quality shampoo and conditioner to get a healthy shine. Wash and condition your hair, then blast it with a cold water rinse to help seal in the conditioner to add shine and make your hair easier to style.

2. Your winter hair may already be in damage deficit from exposure to the sun and sea during the summer months, so needs to be nourished from within. Choose an intensive moisturising shampoo and conditioner: look for products with the word ‘replenish’ on them.

3. Add a hair treatment mask once a week to your hair care routine.

4. Moisturise your hair once a week with a hot oil treatment to promote a healthy scalp and nourished hair. Some natural oils that work particularly well include coconut oil and almond oil.

5. Give your hair a new lease of life in the autumn/winter months with a cut to get rid of split ends. Aim to get your split ends trimmed every six to eight weeks as this will promote healthy hair.

6. As the weather becomes colder and the air drier, it takes its toll on your hair and can cause it to become brittle and dry and to break. Indoor heating can also damage hair. Wear a scarf or hat when outside, and add humidity to the air in your home or office - your hair and skin will benefit.

7. To avoid frizzy, static-prone hair in the winter months, keep your hair tied up as much as possible, particularly when out and about, and especially when exercising.

8. If you use heat styling tools, like curling tongs or hair straighteners, then you must always use a good quality, nourishing heat defence spray or leave-in conditioner to protect your hair and keep it looking glossy and hydrated. This is especially important during winter, when cold wind, rain and the added heat from styling tools all contribute to hair damage.

9. Try not to leave the house with wet hair: the cold weather can cause your hair to freeze at the cuticle and cause it to break.

10. Lastly, why not rejuvenate yourself and go for a new look this winter by dyeing your hair a dark, warm colour? On-trend colours right now include mahogany, plum and chocolate brown.

Hair Care Tips for a Healthy Scalp

Hair problems such as thinning or falling of hair, premature greying or breakage, dandruff and flaking could be symptoms that indicate an unhealthy scalp. As upsetting and embarrassing as these may be, they are also warning signs to start taking care of your scalp. 

What's your scalp type?

Much like skin, the scalp too can broadly be divided into three types — normal, oily and dry. To be able to master a scalp care regime, you need to determine which scalp type you are (see table below). We got an expert to suggest beauty routines for each variant.

Normal Scalp

Says trichologist Dr Pankaj Chaturvedi, “Since it has the right balance of sebaceous glands, the normal scalp type is generally not prone to problems like dandruff or excessive oil deposition.” 

What to do?

Shampoo and condition your hair twice a week with a herbal shampoo meant for normal hair. Always use a light conditioner after, to avoid frizzy flyaways.

Do a warm oil treatment once a month so that the oil glands are stimulated. Keep the oil on for about an hour and shampoo off. If you don’t want to an oil treatment, simply massage your hair with water. 

The physical pressure applied in massaging helps in improving blood circulation.

Home remedy: Treat your hair to an avocado and olive oil mask once a month to render it a luscious shine. Mash one ripe avocado, add half a cup coconut milk and one tablespoon olive oil and whisk well. Apply this mixture to dry hair and leave it on for 30 minutes. Shampoo and condition your hair as you would do usually.

Oily scalp

Contrary to popular belief, oily scalp is most prone to dandruff and flaking. The excess oil that the sebaceous glands in the scalp produce, tends to accumulate around the roots, clogging the pores. The hair is usually limp and flat, making it almost impossible for volumising or styling products to hold.

What to do:

Shampoo your hair every day with a deep cleansing shampoo suitable for oily hair. If you suffer from dandruff, opt for an anti-dandruff variety. If you must use conditioner, ensure you leave the conditioner on for under 60 seconds. Avoid using leave-in conditioners.

Do not apply extra oil unless suggested by a trichologist. Avoid brushing your hair too much as that stimulates secretion of oil. 

Home remedy: To control secretion of excess oil, make a mixture of lemon and hibiscus flower with two tablespoons of curd. Apply it on your hair like a mask. Leave on for about 20 minutes, then shampoo off.

Dry scalp

A dry scalp causes constant itching and flaking, leaving the hair rough, dull and frizzy. “Since the oil secreted by the sebaceous glands is insufficient, apply oil externally for your mane’s natural nourishment,” says Dr Chaturvedi. 

What to do?

Oil your hair overnight before you decide to wash your hair. Shampoo only once a week with a product that contains natural oils for moisture. Opt for a thick cream-based conditioner and leave it on for about 10 minutes before rinsing off.

Get a warm oil treatment every week to stimulate the sebaceous glands. Massage your scalp thoroughly to stimulate oil secretion.

Home remedy: To moisturise your scalp and stimulate oil secretion, cut a lemon into half. Rub it in circular motions all over wet hair to exfoliate dry skin off the surface. Let the lemon juice soak for about 30 minutes and rinse with water.

Scalp care tips

Avoid loading the hair with too many products. Make sure your hair is free of products at least once a week to ensure the scalp can “breathe”

Do not blow-dry hair for more than five minutes

Invest in a massaging hairbrush to stimulate the scalp, thereby strengthening your tresses

Never brush your hair in a hurry as friction causes split ends

Avoid brushing when the scalp is wet

Do not tie up wet hair as the moisture accumulates and clogs the pores, subjecting your scalp to bacterial and fungal infections

Always wash your hair in lukewarm water so that it is not too harsh on your scalp

Include soyabeans, broccoli, flaxseeds and radish in your daily diet

Avoid touching and pulling your hair too much as this could lead to richotillomania